The information flashed throughout my display screen like a jewellery A.P.B: “Sotheby’s is delighted to announce that we are going to provide one among Cartier’s most iconic designs, a Gem-Set, Diamond and Enamel Tutti Frutti Bracelet, in a devoted on-line public sale open for bidding on sotheby’s.com from 24 April -28 April 2020. This sensational jewel will likely be provided with an estimate of $600/$800,000.”
Behind the ruby purple alert is the historical past of this iconic design. It’s the mark of the wonderful trade of concepts and inspiration between the French home of Cartier and Indian royalty that impressed among the most necessary items of the 20 th century.
There had been a number of colourful Cartier designs earlier than brother Jacques got down to India in 1911 to witness the coronation of King George as Emperor, however the journey is a landmark so far as jewellery moments go. It launched the home to a sequence of Maharajahs who would go on to fee masterpieces, and it opened Cartier’s eyes to the stone carving strategies of the Indian jewellery custom.
Quickly bib necklaces and brooches would seem within the Cartier workshop studded with carved rubies, emeralds, and sapphires, in shapes like leaves and berries and blossoms. It was a departure from the white-diamond heavy garlands and bows that had dominated choices earlier than them, but additionally veered away from the strict geometric strains of Artwork Deco jewels that dominated the mid to late 1920s.
To personal one among these Indian-inspired Cartier items was to single your self out as a real connoisseur. Check out the enduring Cecil Beaton portrait of Tutti Frutti proprietor (and Singer stitching machine heiress) Daisy Fellows sporting her 1936 Collier Hindou Tutti Frutti. Simply take a look at her, she is aware of precisely what she has on. Might this be you?
We talked to Sotheby’s jewellery maestro (and jewellery Mafia member) Frank Everett to trace down this Holy Grail up for public sale now.
So, in regards to the identify Tutti Frutti…
Though the identify ‘Tutti Frutti’ wasn’t coined till the 1970s, these creations from the 1920s-30s all the time incorporate Moghul-style carved coloured gem stones in pure motifs: flowers, leaves, berries and fruits. These carved stones, so widespread in conventional Indian jewellery, had been then mounted by Cartier in platinum and diamond settings, an ideal marriage of East and West.
How uncommon are they?
We don’t see Tutti Frutti’s come up typically. Bracelets? Possibly as soon as each three to 5 years. Smaller items—brooches and jabot pins— are seen extra continuously however typically have just one or two colours. Vital Tutti Frutti items are probably the most uncommon and wanted artworks within the jewellery world.
How did you get your arms on this one?
The consumer inherited the bracelet, which has been within the household’s non-public assortment because the 1980s.
Sotheby’s and Tutti Frutti. How far again do you two go?
Sotheby’s has a distinguished and profitable historical past of promoting Tutti Frutti jewels by Cartier. In 1991, Daisy Fellowes’ Collier Hindou achieved $2.7 million, establishing the world public sale document for any Tutti Frutti jewel by Cartier. In December 2014, a Platinum, Coloured Stone, Diamond and Enamel ‘Tutti Frutti’ Bracelet by Cartier (circa 1928, from the Assortment of Evelyn H. Lauder) bought for $2.2 million to profit the Breast Most cancers Analysis Basis. This stays the public sale document for any Tutti Frutti bracelet by Cartier. As not too long ago as 2017, Sotheby’s Hong Kong bought a Very Uncommon and Beautiful Artwork Deco Gem Set and Diamond Bracelet by Cartier, circa 1928, for $1.7 million.
And this one? Entice the bidders amongst us…
What’s particular about this one? The rubies dominate the colour scheme. They’re organized in an uncommon means, in pairs alternating down the edges. The colours are stunning, very effectively matched when it comes to hue and vibrancy. However probably the most distinctive element is a refined “shadow edge’”of black enamel alongside only one facet, that provides this piece depth and character. I’m in love.
The on-line public sale will open for bidding at 10:00 a.m. on April 24.
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